Re: [AMC-List] Valve covers are a bitch!!!!

[Tom Jennings <tomj@xxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the tips! I never had the plastic cover for this motor (came
coverless). I did manage to tap the holes OK with a plug tap before the
motor went in.

I asked the local engine rebuilder what he uses -- that yellow 3M
weatherstrip stuff! It's basically contact cement. 

On Mon, 2006-05-01 at 06:04, William Renshaw wrote:
> The simplist remedy for the aftermarket cast aluminum valve cover(s) is to 
> remove the wiper motor and the backing plate that the motor rests on. That 
> little "clippie" that holds everything together can be a P.I.T.A. (pain in 
> the a$$) but it gets it out of your way so you do have some room to work. 
> Another option is to place a large floor jack under the motor and a smaller 
> floor jack under the tranny, unbolt the motor mounts and very carefullly 
> pull the motor forward. BUT PULL IT AS FAR TO NOT PUT THE FAN INTO THE 
> RADIATOR!! That will also allow you to have some room to work. I use the 
> Clifford Performance valve cover on my Gremlin. The best way to glue it on 
> is to use contact cement. Place your valve cover gasket on a flat clean 
> surface, goop it up pretty good with contact cement and let it dry over 
> night. The cement has to be dry for it to work properly. NOW HERES THE 
> REALLY TRICKY AND STICKY PART. Use a small amount of the contact cement on 
> the stuff that has dried over night. Place the gasket on the valve cover, 
> you have to be quick or the stuffs going to stick and if the gasket isnt in 
> the right spot....well..... your screwed! I know this sounds like alot of 
> work to get somthing to work. I know I have been there and done that. The 
> gasket on my Gremlin has been on there for over 60,xxx plus miles with out a 
> leak or a drip or any problems. I also had to do the same thing to the 83 
> Eagle wagon that I had at one time. I thought I would "try" to drill and tap 
> the holes in the head with out removing the head..HOMER SIMPSON DID IT 
> AGAIN. Dont do it. Take the head all the way off and take it to a reputiable 
> machine shop and have them drill and tap the holes. Remove the wiper motor 
> and I use a flexiable screwin' driver to get back in between the fire wall 
> and the valve cover. You also have to remove the stock valve cover hold 
> downs that are on the rocker arms. What is nice about using the contact 
> cement is that you only use it on the side that sticks to the valve cover. I 
> never use anything between the gasket and the head itself. The valve cover 
> can be removed and replaced several times with out any problems as leaks and 
> stuff. I have never heard of an after market valve cover scrapping on the 
> rockers before. That is the reason that they are made....make room for the 
> after market rolller rockers. Its a lot of back bustin', nuckle bustin' work 
> but in the long run they are nice and you dont have all the rocker noise 
> like you do with the stockers. GOOD LUCK! KEEP THEM AMC'S ALIVE AND WELL!!
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Renshaw Lewiston Idaho
> AKA Brother B.
> AMC'S RULE.....the rest just drool like the dogs they are.
> 1973 Gremlin X "clone" (project)
> 1970 Original Hornet "plain jane"
> 1974 Matador Coupe "Parts car"
> 
> 
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