[AMC-List] (no subject)

["Swygert, Francis G MSgt 436 CES/CECM" <Francis.Swygert3@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

That is correct -- a NEW hub must be placed on a new or used axle. A
used hub should ONLY be placed back on the axle it came from. 

The hub is made of a slightly softer metal than the axle. The tapered
hole in the hub that fits over the end of the axle has NO splines in it
from the factory -- a new hub is perfectly smooth inside. That axle has
shallow, hardened splines (the whole axle is hardened steel, of course).
When a new hub is fitted and torqued down to 250 lb/ft, the axle
actually "cuts" new splines in the hub. Put a hub on with splines
already cut from another axle and it isn't likely to last long as the
splines aren't likely to line up correctly and they are very close
together. I don't know about damaging the axle, apparently it could. The
main purpose of the key is to put the hub on the same way if you have to
take it off for bearing/seal/brake backing plate service. It does carry
a little load, but not much. 

Mike, your best bet is to use another complete rear end, or just pull
the complete axle/hub/brake backing plate from another rear end. While
you have all that out consider taking the axle to a machine shop so they
can press off the hub and replace the seal and bearing. Then you can
replace the race. DO NOT replace the bearing without replacing the race
in the end of the axle tube too! The bearing and race are match
machined. Mis-match the bearing with a different race and it's not
likely to last long. If you swap axles only (not the whole rear end) you
will have to replace the end bearing. 

You can swap gears if the rear end you bought as a replacement doesn't
have the same gearing. If it came from a car with the same engine and
transmission combination as yours you should be fine though. Setting up
gears has to be done just right! You can do it with a dial indicator as
described in the Chilton's manual, but you can find instructions on the
web on how to do it by sight
(http://www.drivetrain.com/ringpinioninstal.html is one). Basically you
put a coloring agent on the gears and look at the pattern it makes on
the teeth. Once the correct pattern shows up, you're good to go. Note
that there isn't a lot of leeway for adjustment. If the gears are in
wrong they will chew themselves up in short order. Most instructions,
like the link above, use the pattern as a final check. You can use it to
set the gears, but you should purchase 2-3 crush collars. Once a collar
is crushed that's it! If you have the incorrect pattern you may have to
put in a new collar and start over. Usually you can "sneak up" on the
pattern by tightening the pinion nut a little at a time. This takes a
lot of time as you have to put on the compound, check pattern, clean,
tighten a little, then start over, but it works. Don't try using the
compound more than a couple times (I really suggest cleaning between
EVERY check!), and when you think you have it clean thoroughly and check
again. If you take the rear end and used gears to a shop they will
charge about $200 to install for you. That might be the best bet! Pull
the axles first, they just need the housing, differential, and gears
(unless they are going to replace the end bearings and seals too, of
course).

----- Original Message -----
From: Mad57chevy@xxxxxxx
To: eddiestakes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 3:52 PM
Subject: amc parts


hi eddie,im mike from new jersey, i just bought a 76 pacer dl model, im
looking 
for the drivers side rear, axel, hub, backing plate. as mine are bent
and
broken  from the previous owner. i located a nos axel from ebay, not
sure if it 
will fit my ratio but i bought it just in case you dont see many of
those
floating around, now the chiltons says that i can not replace a new axel
on a
used hub it will damage the teeth, not sure myself.plus mine ar bent any
way .
sorry to ramble  any idea where i can find these either new or used
thanks mike 
609-276-0685 verizon cell.

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